Itinerary

Suwon Day Trip

November 14, 20256 min read

Suwon sits just 30 minutes south of Seoul, making it one of the easiest and most rewarding day trips from the capital. The city's main attraction, Hwaseong Fortress, represents a unique moment in Korean history when King Jeongjo attempted to create an ideal city honoring his wrongfully executed father. The result is a UNESCO World Heritage site that remains remarkably intact.

Hwaseong Fortress: Walking the Walls

The fortress walls stretch 5.7 kilometers around Suwon's old city center. Built between 1794 and 1796, they incorporated the latest military technology of the era while following Confucian principles of urban planning. You can walk the entire circuit in about 2-3 hours. The path is paved and accessible, though some sections involve stairs. Highlights include Hwaseomun (West Gate), Janganmun (North Gate), and the various guard towers and command posts along the route. Start at Paldalmun (South Gate), near the traditional market. The tourist information center here provides maps and context. Walk counterclockwise to catch the most photogenic sections with good lighting. Entrance to the wall walk is free. Individual structures like Hwaseong Haenggung (the temporary palace) charge small admission fees. A combined ticket covers everything for about 6,500 won.

Haenggung and the King's Story

Hwaseong Haenggung served as King Jeongjo's temporary palace during his visits from Seoul. It's the largest temporary palace in Korea and has been beautifully restored. The palace holds martial arts demonstrations and traditional performances at scheduled times—check the daily schedule at the entrance. The complex is larger than expected, with multiple courtyards and buildings to explore. King Jeongjo's story adds emotional depth to the visit. His father, Crown Prince Sado, was executed by being sealed in a rice chest by his own father. Jeongjo built Hwaseong partly to honor his father and relocate his tomb to nearby Yungneung. The fusion of filial devotion and political ambition is very Korean. The fortress area includes a small archery range where you can try traditional Korean archery for a few thousand won. It's touristy but fun.

Food and Practical Details

Suwon galbi (beef short ribs) is legendary. The marinated ribs are larger than typical galbi, and the city takes pride in the dish. The original restaurant district is near Paldalmun Gate—Yeonpo Galbi and Samwon Garden are established names, though prices reflect the reputation. For something cheaper, Suwon's traditional market (Paldalmun Market) has street food and local restaurants. It's one of Korea's largest traditional markets and worth exploring for its energy. From Seoul, take Subway Line 1 to Suwon Station (about 1 hour) or the KTX for a faster ride. From the station, buses reach the fortress area in 10-15 minutes. Taxis are also cheap and convenient. Combine Suwon with the Korean Folk Village (20 minutes by bus) for a full day. The folk village is touristy but provides context for traditional Korean life. Together, they make a solid 8-10 hour day trip.

Final Thoughts

Suwon proves that meaningful historical sites don't require overnight stays or complicated logistics. The fortress is accessible, well-maintained, and offers a tangible connection to Korea's Joseon dynasty. Add excellent food and easy transit from Seoul, and you have one of Korea's best day trips. Come for the walls, stay for the galbi.

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