Sokcho & Gangneung: Korea's East Coast Getaway

Gangneung has transformed into Korea's coffee capital. Anmok Beach (Coffee Street) is lined with dozens of roasteries and cafes, each with ocean views. The quality is serious—these aren't just tourist traps. Try Terarosa (Korea's pioneer specialty roaster), Bossanova, or any place that catches your eye. Gyeongpo Beach is the main beach, a wide stretch of sand backed by a lake. Summer brings crowds; off-season brings peace. The lake area has bike paths, and at night, Gyeongpo Pavilion offers traditional atmosphere. Ojukheon, the birthplace of Korean philosopher Yulgok and his mother Shin Saimdang (featured on the 5,000 and 50,000 won bills), is a well-preserved example of traditional Korean architecture. The surrounding bamboo grove is serene. Gangneung's Jungang Market is the real deal—local seafood, sundae (blood sausage), and market atmosphere without tourist markup. Find it near the old downtown area.

Sokcho sits at the base of Seoraksan, Korea's most famous national park. The mountain's rocky peaks and autumn foliage draw hikers year-round, but even non-hikers can enjoy shorter trails and the cable car to Gwongeumseong. The town itself has a working fishing port atmosphere. Sokcho Tourist Fish Market has live seafood on the first floor and restaurants above—pick your fish, take it upstairs, and have it prepared however you like. Abai Village, accessible by hand-pulled ferry across the harbor (free), is a neighborhood established by North Korean refugees during the Korean War. It's known for sundae squid (squid stuffed with glass noodles) and has a melancholy historical significance. Jungang Market in Sokcho features famous dak gangjeong (sweet crispy fried chicken)—the line at Manseok Dakgangjeong starts early on weekends.

Express buses from Seoul's Dong Seoul Terminal reach Gangneung (2.5 hours) and Sokcho (2.5-3 hours) regularly. KTX trains now run to Gangneung (under 2 hours), making weekend trips much more feasible. Between Gangneung and Sokcho, city buses run along the coast road (about 1 hour). The route itself is scenic, passing beaches and small fishing villages. Within each city, local buses serve tourist areas but can be confusing. Taxis are affordable. If you're staying multiple days, a rental car opens up the smaller coastal towns and makes Seoraksan access easier. Accommodation ranges from seaside hotels to guesthouses to traditional minbak (Korean B&Bs). Summer (especially August) and autumn (October) are peak seasons—book ahead.

Jeongdongjin, south of Gangneung, is famous for having Korea's first sunrise of the new year (reachable by land). The train station sits right on the beach—an unusual sight. A retired warship-turned-resort adds to the quirky atmosphere. Haslla Art World combines sculpture gardens with ocean views. It's particularly popular at sunset. The museum and outdoor installations are thoughtfully integrated into the clifftop setting. Yangyang, between Sokcho and Gangneung, has Naksan Temple (one of Korea's most famous seaside temples) and Surfyy Beach, where Korea's small but growing surf scene congregates. If you're interested in hiking Seoraksan properly, consider staying in Sokcho for 2-3 nights. The park has multiple trail sections that reward extended exploration.