Korean Seafood: From Markets to Tables

Jagalchi Market in Busan is Korea's most famous fish market. Noryangjin in Seoul serves the capital. Both work similarly: vendors on the first floor sell live seafood, and restaurants on upper floors prepare what you buy. The system: walk the first floor, choose your fish (point if you don't know names), negotiate price (or accept the stated price—bargaining is expected but optional), then take your purchase upstairs where restaurants charge a 'cooking fee' to prepare it. This ranges from 10,000-20,000 won depending on the restaurant and preparation style. If this seems complicated, markets also have sit-down restaurants where you order from menus at standard prices. Less adventurous but less stressful. Timing matters. Early morning sees the best selection but fewest tourists. Lunchtime offers good variety with a working atmosphere. Evening gets crowded and prices may rise.

Hoe (pronounced 'hweh') is Korean raw fish. It differs from Japanese sashimi: sliced thinner, served with more accompaniments, and eaten wrapped in lettuce with ssamjang (spicy paste), garlic, and peppers. Flatfish (광어), rockfish (우럭), and flounder are most common. Sea bream, octopus, and seasonal fish expand the options. Freshness is paramount—Koreans prefer fish killed and prepared immediately before eating. Sannakji (산낙지) is live octopus, still moving when served. The suction cups remain active. Chew thoroughly—choking incidents happen. It's milder than it sounds if you're prepared for texture. Hoe restaurants typically serve raw fish as one course in an elaborate meal. Expect soup, grilled fish, fried fish, and numerous side dishes. You're paying for the full experience.

Godeungeo-gui (grilled mackerel) is an everyday Korean meal. The fish is salted and grilled simply. It appears in home cooking, office lunch restaurants, and traditional Korean meal sets. Jjigae (stews) featuring seafood are winter staples. Haemul-jjigae uses mixed seafood in spicy broth. Kkotgetang is spicy crab stew. Maeuntang is spicy fish stew made from the heads and bones after raw fish is consumed. Haemul-pajeon (seafood pancake) combines green onions with squid, shrimp, and oysters in a crispy, savory pancake. The combination with makgeolli (rice wine) is classic, especially on rainy days. Ganjang-gejang (soy-marinated raw crab) is an acquired taste that many visitors love. Fresh crab is marinated in soy sauce until the meat becomes silky. It's called 'rice thief' because Koreans eat excessive rice with it.

Busan focuses on raw fish and the Jagalchi Market experience. The city's fish is as fresh as anywhere in Korea. Yeosu and Tongyeong on the south coast are famous for oysters and anchovy. Visit during oyster season (November-March) for the freshest specimens. Pohang on the east coast claims Korea's best gwamegi (dried saury)—a winter delicacy with an intense flavor that polarizes even Koreans. Jeju Island offers abalone (전복) and hairtail (갈치) as specialties. The haenyeo (women divers) harvest fresh sea urchin, abalone, and octopus that restaurants serve immediately. Sokcho in the northeast is known for fresh cuttlefish and red snow crab, particularly in autumn and winter.