Jeonju: Korea's Traditional Soul and Foodie Paradise

Unlike restored heritage sites, Jeonju Hanok Village is a living neighborhood. Over 700 traditional hanok houses function as homes, guesthouses, restaurants, and shops. The scale is unmatched in Korea—you can spend hours exploring alleys and not repeat a path. Hanbok rental is ubiquitous. For 15,000-30,000 won, you can dress in traditional clothing for the day. Many Koreans do this; you won't look out of place. In hanbok, you get free admission to nearby heritage sites. Key landmarks include Gyeonggijeon Shrine (housing a portrait of the Joseon dynasty founder), Jeondong Catholic Church (striking Romanesque architecture), and Omokdae Pavilion (excellent overview of the village). But random wandering is equally rewarding. Stay overnight in a hanok guesthouse. The ondol (heated floor) sleeping experience and traditional breakfast are worth the extra night in Jeonju. Book ahead for weekends.

Jeonju bibimbap differs from versions elsewhere. The rice is cooked in beef broth, more vegetable toppings are included, and raw beef (yukhoe) often replaces cooked meat. Kong Namul Gukbap Alley serves the local specialty—bean sprout soup with rice—for hangover breakfasts. Makgeolli town, a cluster of traditional drink houses, serves the fermented rice wine with elaborate 'anju' spreads. Order one bottle and receive 10+ side dishes—the pairing culture here is exceptional. Go in the evening when locals fill the tables. Hanok restaurants within the village serve Korean course meals in traditional settings. Reservations help for well-known spots. Outside the village, the city has excellent food without the tourist markup. Choco Pie is Jeonju's unexpected specialty—massive hand-made versions that dwarf the packaged snack. PNB bakery started the trend. It's legitimately good, not just a gimmick.

Hanji (traditional paper) made Jeonju famous long before tourism. The Hanji Museum demonstrates production techniques, and workshops let you try papermaking. The paper is still used for traditional Korean crafts and even fashion. Jeonju is a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, reflecting official recognition of its food culture. The Jeonju Bibimbap Festival in October celebrates this status with cooking competitions and tastings. Pansori, the traditional Korean narrative song form, has roots here. Performances are occasionally held at venues throughout the city. The dramatic vocal style takes adjustment for foreign ears, but it's a genuine art form. Jeonju International Film Festival (May) focuses on independent and digital cinema. Less famous than Busan's festival but more accessible, with screenings throughout the hanok village.

From Seoul, KTX reaches Jeonju in about 1.5 hours. The train station is outside the city center—take a bus or taxi to the hanok village (about 15 minutes). Express buses from Seoul's Central City Terminal take around 2.5 hours and drop you closer to the village. Within Jeonju, the hanok village is entirely walkable. For destinations outside, buses are adequate but not frequent. Taxis are affordable for the city's scale. Most visitors come for day trips, but an overnight stay allows evening exploration of the village (beautifully lit after dark) and the full makgeolli town experience. Two nights feels comfortable for thorough exploration.